S/V Hello World's Travel Log

christmas in the islands

Bound and determined we were. Bound AND determined to leave La Paz for the holidays. La Paz was great but we were ready to get out of the city and head north into the Sea of Cortez for the rest of the season. And leave we did. We finally made it out of La Paz and were on our way to experience the rest of Sea of Cortez. Woohoo! We sailed north for Isla Espiritu Santo and it's many great anchorages. We chose Puerto Ballena to anchor over Christmas while a big norther blew through.

We spent Christmas eve and day by ourselves in a mostly empty anchorage. We read books on the foredeck, dinghied in to shore to walk on the beach and just generally lazed around. How is that different from any other day on Hello World? Well... ya got me there.

From Puerto Ballandra, we headed north once again to Caleta Partida to meet up with Stepping Stone crew. We hung out with them and our new buddy Kevin from s/v Pahto for a few days. We did a little spearfishing with our new spear CANNON. I missed everything I shot at but Sarah borrowed the gun and blew a barn door open in the side of an unsuspecting surfperch. Poor guy never saw it coming. Elias and Kevin also borrowed it during a session of night spearfishing (not for me, thanks) and came home with a decent catch.

From Caleta Partida, we said a sad farewell to Stepping Stone who set off for the warmer waters of the Mexican mainland. Hopefully, they will grow disenchanted with all the warm tropical weather, snorkeling, surfing and palm trees of the mainland coast and join us again one day in the Sea of Cortez.

We departed Caleta Partida and ran up to Ensenada Grande, our favorite anchorage in the islands. After setting our anchor, we were sitting down below when we heard the strangest noise outside. This kind of strange rhythmic concussion on the decks and cabin top. We poked our heads up out of the boat to discover... WATER FALLING FROM THE SKY. I believe in other parts of the world, they call this phenomenon rain. We searched our brains and drudged up fuzzy memories of this, this... rain. This was our first rain on the boat going back to October of last year. Fortunately, the boat needed a freshwater bath so the rain was welcome. I can handle rain every three months or so.

Doing some futzing around below decks, we discovered our bilge pump wasn't pumping water. Turns out our float switch - the switch that turns on the bilge pump when there is water in the bilge and therefore keeps the boat from sinking - crapped out. So. Head north into the most desolate section of coast in the Sea of Cortez without a working float switch? Or....

Head back to La Paz.

[sigh...]


Christmas Day in Puerto Ballena.


Merry Christmas!!


Another good argument for never NEVER trusting your GPS in Mexico. The charts down here are a bit like all the stop signs in La Paz, more of a guideline.


Elias from s/v Stepping Stone and Kevin from s/v Pahto doing some night spearfishing.


After the rain passed, we had a great sunset at Ensenada Grande.

24°28.381'N 110°22.803'W

escape from la paz

We like anchoring out way better than marinas. The last marina we were in was San Diego and we only went in to a marina because we had new solar panels to install that we really didn't want to drop in the ocean. However, we need shore power to equalize our battery banks (equalize means to overcharge them and boil the acid in the batteries to knock the deposits off the lead plates inside). The last time we equalized our batteries was... um, never. Since we should be doing it about once a month, now seems like a good time. Our poor boat also desperately needed a bath. She's been covered in salt and bird poo for too long.

We had a few more projects that needed doing so we pulled into Marina Palmira in La Paz for a few days of living the high life. Flush toilets. Hollywood showers. Unlimited AC electricity there for the taking. Christy spit-polished Hello World into a gleaming shine. I worked on getting our decrepit, power hungry refrigerator insulated enough to hold some ice so we could at least run it while the engine was going and keep ice in it the rest of the time. I made a run to Home Depot - yes, they have a Home Depot in La Paz, just go to Walmart and hang a left - to purchase some foam insulation panels and spray foam. I made a hillbilly hackjob of it but at least our freezer box has marginal insulating properties now.

We got most of the items on our list complete and left to anchor out in El Megote, the cruisers anchorage off the La Paz waterfront. We spent a few days waiting out the norther and then a few more days struggling to reach escape velocity. La Paz is a hard place to leave. On Saturday, one of the boats in the area hosted a party on the beach including roasting a pig. We all hung out on the beach as the sun set, drinking home made apple hooch, playing bocce ball in the sand and eating succulent fire-roasted pig.

We had to get some more Mexican paperwork in the form of a Temporary Import Permit. Given the effort it takes to deal with the Mexican government and the possibility of getting grifted like we did the last time, we hired an agent to handle this bit of administrata for us and we're happy we did. We also spent an evening with the hilarious crew from s/v Pisces, Jacob & Julia and tried to convince them that going north would be way more fun than their plans of going south.

Our last task in La Paz before leaving was Christmas presents! Don't get too excited, the presents were for ourselves. Mainly one:


If you are currently a fish residing in the Sea of Cortez: BE VERY AFRAID.


The first time our shore power cord has seen the light of day since we left Shilshole Marina in May. Solar power = the awesome.


Bimini and dodger (canvas coverings over the cockpit and companionway of the boat) from our friends on s/v Fly Aweigh. We're envious of their copius solar array and comfy out-of-sun seating.


Wynn from s/v Tynamara throwing down on the bocce court.


Elias and Sarah from s/v Stepping Stone mixing it up.


Kayaking the mangoves of the Megote.


A trimaran sitting on the beach looking not very good.


A mangrove occupant.

24°09.639'N 110°19.978'W

give us a shout!

We finally have a way for you to get ahold of us again. If you look under site navigation to your right, there's now a link called Contact Us.

Take a minute, hit the link and say hey. We'd love to know who's out there reading the blog and how you found it.

i like cold beverages - part 1

(This post is gonna be hyper boat-nerdy so if you came for the sunset pictures, best skip this one.)

We don't use the refrigeration system on board Hello World. It's a water-cooled AC system that pulls down 60 to 70 amps which positively kicks the stuffing out of our batteries. We don't like to run our engine for anything other than propulsion. Diesel engines don't like to be run without a load placed on them. In British Columbia and even going down the Pacific coast, traveling sans refrigeration was fine. Our water tanks were cold enough to drink out of and not having cold beer around means I lost most of my beer belly. We don't need refrigeration!

And then came Mexico. Actually, Cabo San Lucas. The water was 80 degrees which means the water in our tanks were also 80 degrees. An ice cold Coca-Cola was heaven in a bottle. We were getting dehydrated because we weren't drinking enough. And we started to actually catch some fish. That meant whatever we caught, we had to eat right away. Some friends gave us a sierra that we actually had to throw overboard because we couldn't eat it in time.

So we're getting a new refrigeration system. Yeah, I know, we tell everyone we're hard as coffin nails but the truth is we're actually as soft and squishy as Dom DeLuise's underbelly. We've come to accept that life is just better with ice in your gin and tonics and cold milk in your cereal.

Our Requirements

We've cruised for awhile without refrigeration and learned lots of tricks to provision without stocking perishables. We don't need a lot of space for refrigeration. We want to keep drinks cold (really cold), keep fish we catch longer than 4 hours, and have access to fresh food we would otherwise not be able to buy.

Our main requirements for this system:

  • We want to be energy neutral for days on end. I do not want to be in the business of running our engine in order to keep our fridge running.
  • We want to keep our fridge cold. Very cold. 35° would just fine with me.
  • We want to make and store ice.
  • We want to cycle lots of drinks in and out of the fridge.
  • We want this system to work in hot, tropical places.

Sizing the System

Our current fridge/freezer box is a highly under-insulated 11 cubic feet. That's alot of volume to cool and even more so when there's not much insulation around it. So we're going to pull out that box and replace it with a smaller box of around 4.7 cubic feet. Then we can fill in that entire remaining void with a two-part polyurethane foam insulation which should give us a minimum of R30 insulation around the box.

Next, we have to calculate how many BTU's (British Thermal Units) our system needs to pull out of the box. Fortunately, we found kollman-marine.com, a website run by Richard Kollman who specializes in boat refrigeration. His simplified formula for a well-insulated refrigeration heat load for a boat in tropical waters suggests 600 BTUs per cubic foot per day plus 1,000 BTUs per crew member per day.

600 * 4.7 + 1000 * 2 = 4,820 BTU's per day = ~200 BTU's per hour

What Kind of System

There are several ways to skin the frosty-cold-cerveza cat. Holding plates are basically large stainless steel boxes filled with a eutectic solution (for the purpose of this blog post, a eutectic solution is a solution with a lower freezing point than plain water). These plates have coils running through them filled with a refrigerant. The holding plates serve as a battery but instead of electricity, they store negative BTU's. It's like having an ice block that can refreeze itself. Holding plate systems are designed to run just a few hours a day to freeze the plates. But they generally require bigger more power-thirsty compressors. They work well for systems that have large amounts of energy available for a couple hours a day. Folks running an AC genset or their diesel engine a couple hours a day would benefit from holding plate systems.

The other option is to install evaporator plates in the cold box. Evaporator plates cool the refrigerated space they are in directly. Systems with evaporator plates cycle on and off frequently throughout the day as the temperature of the cold box surpasses the threshold of the thermostat. They usually draw a lot less power than the holding plate systems but run off and on throughout the day. They are better suited to boats with smaller, well-insulated cold boxes, large battery banks and/or passive energy like solar and wind generators.

A 12V air-cooled system based on the venerable Danfoss BD50 compressor can pull 330 to 500 BTUs per hour depending on speed the compressor is running and the temperature of the cold plate. That exceeds our requirement of 200 BTU's per hour by a comfortable margin of error. Which means it would be running around 40% to 60% of the time. That should pull 50 to 60 amp-hours per day.

Which brings us to...

Electrical Requirements

In the year and a half that we've owned this boat, I can think of one hour that we've run our engine strictly to charge the batteries. We don't like to do it. It's hard on diesels to run without a load on them and not terribly efficient to run a 46 horsepower engine to put a few hundred watts back into batteries.

We have 240 watts of solar panels on board that keep us in power pretty much as long as we want to sit in an anchorage. We can even run the watermaker for a few hours every couple days and our solar panels keep replacing what we use. We're anticipating refrigeration to add a worst case scenario of 100 amp/hours per day but more likely somewhere around 60 amp/hours. Our current solar array won't keep up with that. We can either add a wind generator or add one or two more 130W solar panels. Or both.

We don't have the cake for both but what a luxury that would be, hey? We're leaning towards replacing the solar panel regulator we have with a MPPT regulator which should wring some more amps out of our current array and support up to two more 130 watt panels.

Our Solution

So what's all this lead up to? Here's the direction we're heading right now:

  • Have someone vacuum out the refrigerant out of our current system. Once the refrigerant is out of it, we should be able to pull it out ourselves.
  • Pull the galley counter off - hopefully without destroying it! - and yank the existing 11 cubic foot cold box out.
  • Replace the existing cold box with a smaller 4.7 cubic foot cold box. Insulate the remaining void with a combination of polyurethane boards and two-part polyurethane spray foam.
  • Install two evaporator plates into the new cold box.
  • Run the two evaporator plates from a small 12V air-cooled system, probably based on a Danfoss BD50 compressor.

Next up? Now we have to choose which refrigeration system we're going to go with.

(8 super bonus round points awarded to anyone who identifies the source of the post title - without googling it, McKenzie...)

apple cider? good. hard apple cider? even better!

That's right - we can now make our own hard cider. And I'm going to share the secret. You're welcome :) This is thanks to John on s/v Alias who gave us the idea. He carries with him an entire beer making kit and a hookah. This guy is not messing around.

So, here is the recipe I used. We've decided it comes out better than what we get at the bar - can't beat that!

1. Start with 1 gallon of good apple cider (I was able to find Tree Top in Mexico)
2. Drink about a cup out of it to make room for sugar, yeast and gases
3. Mix in 1/2 cup of sugar (more if you want it more alcoholic)
4. Dissolve 1/4 tsp yeast in water and then add it to the cider
5. Put on the cap and leave it just loose enough that CO2 can get out (you don't want air getting in)
6. Let it sit for 4 days and then...poof! Hard cider!

There are all sorts of fancy tricks, like getting a one way valve that lets gas out but not in and siphoning off the hard cider to avoid drinking the sediment. We have no such fancy tools, and we're just as happy with our trailer trash cider - it's yummy.

In addition to cider, we've also been making our own yogurt and cottage cheese. Recipes can be found on our faaaancy recipe page!